The West Highlands of Scotland for drivers who love driving.

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Due to my love of cars and empty roads and the great scenery in the West Highlands, and because I loved all three enough to move

up here full time, I often get asked where the good roads are, when is the best time to come, where should we stay and what about the midges?

 

So here is a drivers' guide. All in my humble (but fairly experienced) opinion.

(I've owned and driven a Lotus Elise, Mini Cooper S, Golf R32, Caterham R500, M3 E46, Aston Martin Vantage , 911 turbo S and RS6 here.)

 

BEST TIME TO COME FOR EMPTY ROADS?

(Based on driving between Invergarry (north of Fort William) and Durness up the west coast - where all the good roads are)

In rush hour, you'll see:

March to Easter - one car every 5 or 10 miles

Easter - 20 cars a mile

Between Easter and Whitsun - one car a mile

Whitsun - 20 cars a mile

June - 5 cars a mile

July - 20 cars a mile

August - 30 cars a mile

September - 15 cars a mile

October - 10 cars a mile

November - Feb... what's a car?

(but then it could well be dark - or raining, or both - so you may not see anything).

The best time to drive up here is 05.00 on a Sunday morning in May or June (I'll be the only person you'll ever meet)

(IF YOU DRIVE THIS EARLY IN THE DAY - WATCH OUT FOR DEER - THEY MAKE A REAL MESS OF A CAR)

 

 

BEST TIME TO COME FOR THE WEATHER?

 

April, May, June and September. AVOID SCHOOL HOLIDAYS (ESP. AUGUST - It rains a lot).

..but if that isn't an option, then AFTER the trades have done their journey, but BEFORE the caravans get out. 08.30 - 10.30

That 2 hours can get you 150 glorious empty miles.

 

 

WHAT ABOUT MIDGES?

The midges can be a REAL problem... but hardly ever are.

If you are up here from October till May, you won't see any. Between Late May and September on certain days you find them

On still damp overcast evenings in August, if you are stuck with them, you'll wish you had never been born.

If you are here at that time, in those conditions, Don't leave hotel windows open with lights on, and don't camp!!.

Midges hate the sun, hate wind, hate exposed places - hilltops, beaches...

..but they LOVE still damp evenings and mornings in sheltered places, and they will drink your blood!

You WILL get lots of bites if you sit outside on still summer evenings, but you'll get NONE whilst driving.

You need to know how to manage midges. It takes about 10 years to learn... and you still get bitten.

Buy & bring AVON SKIN SO SOFT (you can buy on-line) - it's what all the fishermen use, and they'd know!

Come in April or May, and avoid the problem!

 

 

WHERE ARE THE GOOD ROADS?

First up - there is stunning scenery between Crianlarich and Fort William over Rannoch Moor and through Glen Coe, so get to Glasgow

and follow signs westbound on the M8 'above' the city, towards the airport and cross the Eirskine Bridge, (A82 to Dunbarton) - and follow signs,

via Loch Lomond to Fort William.

 

Careful over Rannoch Moor (between Tarbet and Fort William), as there are LOTS of hidden dips in the road. It looks like a great road,

but spend this time looking at the scenery, not getting killed. The roads get much better, safer and faster further on - honest.

There are also Scamera Vans on this road.

 

Rannoch Moor - south of Fort William - photo taken from the side of the road

 

Past Fort William (just keep driving north) you get to Invergarry.

This is where the great roads start. As you leave the A82 for the A87 then turn left, past the 'five sisters' towards Skye...

...the next hour (if empty) is bliss. Fast sweeping bends for many, many miles (voted best road in Britain by Biker Mag).

Don't bother going over to Skye (unless you want to climb in the Cullins), turn right a few miles after the Castle (yes this one)

 

...and head for Lochcarron, then take the turn for Applecross (the highest mountain pass in Britain) The roads for the next 60 miles are single track.

Great fun if you time it right, a nightmare if you are behind a caravan.

 

Stop at the Applecross Inn for a lemonade and then head for Shieldaig and Torridon (some of the finest scenery in Europe)

 

Past Torridon, you come to Kinlochewe. Turn Right for this astonishing road (worth the drive to Achnasheen and back, just for the hell of it)

 

But really at Kinlochewe - you should turn left, and stick to the west coast all the way up to Durness (via Gairloch and Ullapool)

The roads and scenery are spectacular, and mostly empty.

 

 

 

WHERE SHOULD I STAY?

The main thing to say here is that if you do this drive 'out of season' you'll be able to busk it as you go, as there will be lots of vacancies.

(Though MANY close between Oct and April - check!) .

However, Easter, Whitsun, and from late June till early September places will often be full.

On the banks of Loch Lomond (30 mins north of Glasgow) there are lots of Hotels and B&Bs.

We love this place http://www.loch-lomond.co.uk/

A bit pricey, but great food and a beach - and they allow dogs!

There are LOADS of hotels and B&Bs in Fort William.

The Applecross INN http://www.applecross.uk.com/inn/ is a really great place to stay, but due to the BBC2 prog 'MONTY HALLS GREAT ADVENTURE' it's really busy .

When you get to Shieldaig/Torridon, visit my accommodation page: http://www.stevecarter.com/ansh/ansh7.htm

(I HIGHLY recommend the Loch Torridon Hotel if you have some money to spare - Best Hotel In Scotland many times over)

There are lots of B&Bs in Gairloch and Ullapool - I'm afraid you're on your own from here.

 

ANY DRIVING TIPS? POLICE, SCAMERAS ETC?

On the west coast between Lochacarron and Ullapool, in 10 years I have seen one Scamera Van. There are no Gatsos.

The van seems only to come over to the west coast on a Saturday. (but don't trust me on that!)

I'm obviously not going to recommend anyone speeds, but there is speed and 'inappropriate' speed.

Take it really easy through the villages, as kids WILL be playing in the middle of the roads with pet sheep.

Once on the fast bits, it's up to you. I've seen several cars written off here, mostly because they took off over bumps at 150mph+

..or hit a deer. Each will spoil your holiday (or your life), So you DO have to be careful. But steady quick progress is possible.

...the sort of progress that you'll not find anywhere else in the UK

 

 

Any Questions... feel free to e mail me.

Steve